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It’s landlocked but somehow still feels coastal. Musical entertainment can be found in three town squares 365 nights a year. Residents can play golf on one of 40 courses every day for free. The water in the public pools is always the perfect temperature. The sunrises and sunsets are so intensely pink and orange and red they look computer-enhanced. The grass is always a deep Pakistan green. The community real estate office sells about 250 houses every month. This is one of the fastest-growing small cities in America, a place so intoxicating that weekend visitors frequently impulse-purchase $200,000 homes. It's a bizarre sensation, like happening upon a geriatric man’s vision of heaven itself.
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All around me, old men drive golf carts styled to look like German luxury automobiles or that have tinted windows and enclosures to guard against the morning chill, along a wide, paved cart path. Acres of palmetto, hummock, and pine forest clear-cut and covered with vivid sod. What was once rolling pasture land has been leveled with clay and sand. The owners of a dingy single-wide proudly fly the stars and bars.Īnd then, suddenly, unexpectedly, Wildwood’s drabness explodes into green Southern splendor: majestic oaks bearing spindly fronds of Spanish moss that hang down almost to the ground. There’s a rail yard crowded with static freight trains. This area used to be the very center of Florida’s now fast-disappearing cattle industry. A community center with a playground overgrown by weeds. Seventy miles northwest of Orlando International Airport, amid the sprawling, flat central Florida nothingness - past all of those billboards for Jesus and unborn fetuses and boiled peanuts and gator meat - springs up a town called Wildwood.